FEATURES

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"Just sprinkling a great tomato with sea salt makes a really delicious salad!"

Nischan's philosophy is particularly evident in one of his holiday menus (there are several), which are available through New Year's Day. (The menu can vary depending on what ingredients are available.) The meat for his succulent leg of pasture-raised lamb, stuffed with fresh chestnuts and dried cranberries, comes from Fleischer's Meats in Kingston, N.Y., a family-owned butcher shop that sells only local, pasture-fed organic meats. The cured Berkshire pork belly, served with pan-wilted kale and pears, hails from Heritage Foods USA, a company dedicated to saving native American livestock. (The kale and onions in the dish come from Fort Hill Farm in New Milford, and the pears from Red Jacket Farm in upstate N.Y.) A side dish of fresh squash is flavored with sea salt and honey from Andrew's Local Honey, available at farmer's markets and local grocery stores like Wild Oats. Finally, the mouthwatering angel food cake, pan-fried and served with local currant jam and ice cream, is just the kind of classic American recipe Nischan favors.

"This meal is so healthful that the angel food cake won't hurt you!" Nischan quips. "You get high-quality protein from the lamb and chestnuts, soluble fiber from the squash, calcium from the greens and antioxidants from the cranberries. All of the ingredients are in peak season, so the nutrients are great."

In addition to practicing what he preaches at the Dressing Room, Nischan spreads the word about local, sustainable cuisine through Wholesome Wave, a nonprofit organization he founded that manages the two branches of the Westport Farmer's Market, among other initiatives. "The Connecticut Department of Agriculture helped us choose our marquee farmers," Nischan explains.