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February 2007


WINE & SPIRITS

Bubbled Over

(Page 3 of 3)

Champagne Henriot (pronounced Onn-ree-O), an enchanting Reims sparkler, has a blanc de blanc with just the sort of yeasty punch that gets female hormones a-tingling. The Champagne was once the bubbly of choice among Dutch and Austro-Hungarian royals, giving it that frisson of upper crust pedigree. Today it is also appreciated by commoners who embrace its irresistible blend, made with a higher-than-the-usual proportion of premier and grand cru chardonnay grapes. Its non-vintage Champagne is aged twice (as long as required by law), making it especially complex and elegant.

The final under-the-radar Champagne on my Valentine's list is Pol Roger, a cult Champagne appreciated by flush in-the-know drinkers. Pull out the stops this February 14 with the 1996 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, a marvelous (and pricey) vintage Champagne with a floral and brioche nose and a lovely honey finish. Report your findings to Dr. Lake in the morning.

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