WINE & SPIRITS

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Quincy (pronounced "can-see"), a tiny region, was revived in the '80s by Domaine Lafond and has seen an influx of young winemakers. Its 250 acres of vineyards produce light wines with a lower alcohol content and less acidity—a great match with oysters. Coteaux de Giennois, meanwhile, produces a very classic sauvignon blanc known for its assertive grassiness and great acidity. These vivid wines are full of minerality with quince notes.

Touraine Sauvignon, the last of the lesser-known appellations, is quite large and, surprisingly, produces more wine than Pouilly Fumé. Located near the city of Tours, the Touraine area is unquestionably the Loire's most scenic. The wines, which until recently were not much exported to the U.S., are aromatic with notes of straw, honeysuckle and exotic fruits.

But why learn about these lesser-known regions when Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé are so reliably good? For one thing, wines from these less-established areas are substantially cheaper. They're well-made, good-value wines that reflect their individual soils (terroir). Then, of course, there's the thrill of discovery, and sharing what you've found with friends (and dinner hosts). "I wanted to introduce you to a new gem I've discovered from the Loire Valley," you might say. "It's called Mentou-Salon, from an area 50 miles south of Sancerre. Did you know these wines were considered necessary ornaments of the table among 12th-century nobility?"