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October 2007


FEATURES

Milking It

(Page 3 of 3)

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During the aging process, the cheeses are turned regularly to prevent them from sticking to the shelves and to ensure that their moisture is evenly distributed. When the aging is done, the rounds are wrapped and sold.

Along with Womanchego, Cato Corner Farm produces 11 other varieties of cheese, ranging from mild and runny to pungent and firm. These include Hooligan, a highly aromatic, washed-rind cheese with a creamy interior and orange rind; Bridgid's Abbey (in the style of Trappist monasteries), a creamy, smooth and mild variety; and Dutch Farmstead (Cato Corner's variation on Gouda), which has a nutty, well-balanced flavor.

Although maintaining a farm, caring for cows and making cheese is challenging, almost non-stop work, both mother and son find it deeply fulfilling. As Gillman says, "It's satisfying to create a unique product that reflects our farm, our animals and our labor." You can sample Cato Farm cheeses at stores and restaurants throughout Connecticut, New Jersey, New York and New England, or on Saturdays at the farm itself. And if you end up driving to bucolic Colchester, you'll probably want to pack your car with cheese and milk your visit for all it's worth.

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