WINE & SPIRITS

And taste we did. First, the single vineyard, single variety 1995 Krug Clos du Mesnil ($1,200 a bottle) made from grapes grown in a tiny stone-walled vineyard in the Côte des Blancs. In 1698, the villagers, finding this particular vineyard to be exceptional, constructed an enshrining wall (clos) around the vines—a practice that's rare in Champagne.

Next, a hush fell over the room when a magnum of Krug Clos D'Ambonnay 1996 ($2,500, 750ML) was uncorked and poured. (In the 1990, the Krug family found another tiny walled vineyard in the Montagne de Reims pinot noir region, and bought the Clos D'Ambonnay.) Whether it was the thrill of draining wide-lipped tulip flutes of a bubbly costing hundreds of dollars a swallow or the beguiling taste of this superstar blanc de noirs, I'll never know. I have to admit I was simply star-stuck. But take heart: while most mortals can't afford the Clos D'Ambonnay (right now the most expensive Champagne upon release in the world), Krug's Grande Cuvée provides that frisson of excitement at a fraction of the price.

 
WHERE TO BUY
KRUG CHAMPAGNE
 
Horseneck Wine & Liquors
25 East Putnam Avenue, Greenwich
203-869-8944

  Harry's Wine & Liquor Market
2094 Post Road, Fairfield
203-259-4692

  Bevmax Warehouse Wines & Liquors
835 East Main Street, Stamford
203-357-9151
and
149 Westport Avenue, Norwalk
203-847-2779

  Le Wine Shop
39 East Elm Street, Greenwich
203-869-6008

  Zachy's Fine Wine
16 Parkway Circle, Scarsdale
800-723-0241